Unravelling Legends in The Peloponnese
Many Greeks say The Peloponnese peninsula is a well guarded secret. Surrounded by sea from all sides, it is the heart of ancient Greece and the birthplace of the Olympic games. It is also, literally, the stuff of legends.
In this very land, Hercules faced the Nemean lion in a heroic battle, Paris of Troy eloped with the infamous Helen and the daring Argonauts embarked on their quest for the Golden Fleece. The Peloponnese holds remnants of the diverse civilizations that once flourished here, evident in the majestic classical temples, awe-inspiring Mycenaean palaces, captivating Byzantine cities and the resilient fortresses of the Ottoman, Frankish and Venetian eras.
Yet still, most visitors to Greece head straight for the islands with, perhaps, a day before or afterwards in Athens. They are completely missing this relatively undiscovered, but extremely important, part of history. The Greek folk are perhaps delighted that there is still a stunningly beautiful part of their mainland close to Athens that is not overrun by tourists, but one will certainly feel welcome visiting this enchanting part of the country.
Looking back on my recent trip there, I realise now that the surreal feeling I had when I was there was one of a deep connection to heroes and myths … which I certainly wasn’t prepared for. Perhaps I had had an ‘Outlander’ moment and mistakenly gone through some stones?!
The three places I thought I knew about (and realised quite quickly that I didn’t know very much!) and was excited to see, were Ancient Epidaurus, Ancient Olympia and the coastal city of Nafplio, Greece’s first city. I also planned to visit The Mani as well – wild, rugged, dramatic and pleasantly under-explored.
Located a couple of hours from Athens, beyond the Corinth Canal and along the northeastern shoreline of the Peloponnese, lies Ancient Epidaurus, an archaeological site that stands out for its remarkable ability to resurrect the ancient world. Transporting one back to the 4th century BC, this hidden gem nestles in a hillside, enveloped by fragrant groves that stretch as far as the eye can see. Remarkably concealed until its discovery and excavation merely a century ago, the ancient stage of Epidaurus now bursts to life with the timeless works of great Greek playwrights.
During my visit, I had the privilege of experiencing ‘Hippolytus’, an Ancient Greek tragedy penned by Euripides and originally performed at the City Dionysia of Athens in 428 BC. The ambiance within the ancient theatre was truly awe-inspiring, immersing me in a bygone era of drama and artistic expression. Notably, the acoustics were surprisingly refined and really enhanced the experience; I certainly didn’t expect that. The stage comes alive every summer from the first week in July until the end of August.
I spent three nights in Nafplio and stayed at Nafplia Palace Hotel which was just beautiful with huge rooms, incredible bathrooms with floor to ceiling glass and impeccable service. The hotel was supposedly fully booked but I hardly saw a soul! One of the best parts was the elevator which went from the hotel, through the cliff and all the way down to the old town, saving guests from a rather long hike! Equally impressive were the sweeping views across the Bay of Argolis, taking centre stage at every turn – from the bedroom, bathroom, balcony, restaurant and infinity pool.
Nafplio is more cosmopolitan that most other ports in The Peloponnese, but is still largely undisturbed by tourists. It’s an enchanting town, so very pretty and always happy. Of course, the locals appreciate visitors coming to spend money in their shops and restaurants, but you certainly won’t find any touting here. The evenings are wonderful with the locals all coming out to gossip and the kids playing sport in the main square. Some of the restaurants are truly superb and the fish served has, in many eateries, come from the sea minutes earlier.
Greeks just love this place and it’s a very popular weekend escape. The locals are very proud people living in a city that was, for a brief while after the declaration of the modern Greek nation, the capital of Greece. They are nostalgic about their golden years even though they were nearly two centuries ago.
Maina or Maïna (the medieval name for the Mani Peninsula) is roughly a three hour drive south of Nafplio. It is the home of the Maniots, descendants of the ancient Spartans. The Mani is known as one of the few ‘wild parts’ of Europe with a fascinating history, unique beauty and friendly coastal towns. It is full of Byzantine chapels, mule tracks, sheep with bells and houses that look like small forts. The heart of the Peloponnese has been, until now, hard to visit as the Mani has long been characterised a ‘closed’ society, governed for centuries based on bloodlines and gender and historically vigilant against invasions. It’s inhabitants have fostered an unwavering sense of autonomy. In fact, when an author of one of the greatest books ever written about the region arrived to begin his research, he met people who had never seen anyone from outside The Mani!
The folk here are fascinating … one might find them deeply traditional and conservative at first, but they will become affectionate rather quickly and may even refer to you as ‘korona mou’ which means ‘my dear’. A good tip here is to be on your guard at all times, as they can change their mind about visitors rather quickly!
I was welcomed at The Kinsterna Hotel, a 22 acre estate in Monemvasia and a Byzantine-era rural mansion, superbly restored with great respect to its long history and self-sufficient. The hotel produces its own wine, extra virgin olive oil, olives, tsipouro, bread, marmalade and much more; the meals are seriously good! It is a stunning and super relaxing hotel and it manages to combine contemporary design with historic architecture so very well.
Monemvasia means ‘only entrance’ referring to the only access point to the island. It is a breathtaking stone-built medieval city, founded by the Byzantines in the sixth century and claimed by Franks, Venetians and Ottomans. It is located on the edge of a big rock on the south-eastern coast of the Peloponnese. This huge sea rock is not visible from the mainland so as to prevent enemy attacks. The only way to reach Monemvasia was by boat, while later a paved pathway was constructed to connect the castle entrance to the mainland. The romanticism of Monemvasia’s Old Town is quite overwhelming. There is a main street, tavernas and shops but I felt as though was in a play just by being there. Another name for this magical place is ‘The Violet City’ – you’ll see the stones turn a beautiful lavender at sunset.
A visit here is really a journey through time … quite surreal.
The last stop on this trip was to Ancient Olympia, one of the most significant sites in Greek history, renowned for being the birthplace of the Olympic Games, which were held in Olympia every four years for nearly 12 centuries. As with many ancient sites, the cultural and historical significance of Olympia is still respected, but its role and function have evolved over the centuries from a sacred sanctuary to an archaeological and historical landmark and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Olympia seems hidden until reaching the gates, and then grandeur takes over. The main attraction is the Sanctuary of Zeus, which housed the famous statue of Zeus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Other than that, the remains of ancient temples can be seen, the stadium and the Archaeological Museum, which hosts stunning pieces found at excavations in the ancient site and the region of Olympia, such as the Statue of Hermes of Praxiteles and the Nike of Paionios.
Ancient Olympia grew to be the most celebrated sacred site of Ancient Greece so it’s definitely one to tick off the list but it’s not all there is to see here. The beaches, 30 waterfalls in the village of Nemouta and the Lake of Kaiafas, where one can relax in warm springs and see a group of turtles, are worth seeing too.
I ended my Peloponnese visit with a wine tour of Kitma Bridziki Estate, a wonderful organic vineyard owned by Sakis Brintzikis, producer of indigenous, rare varietals. He once said “If you have a vine, an olive tree and an inch of land to stand on your feet, you can build the entire world anew.”