Go Boho in Mexico!

Puerto Escondido, meaning ‘Hidden Port’ in English, is a chic coastal gem in Mexico, yet to be taken over by large resorts. I just love its beauty and cultural diversity. Whether you want to surf killer Pacific pipelines, watch turtles and dolphins doing their thing, visit waterfalls and lagoons, or get up close with the locals by exploring the indigenous villages, it really does have something for everyone.

This was my second visit – I felt so ‘new’ when I got home last time and wanted that feeling again after a particularly stressful year. The choice between staying at Hotel Escondido again or trying Hotel Terrestre, which opened just over a year ago, was tough but I went with the old “if it ain’t broken, don’t fix it” thing and was of course super comfortable!

Hotel Escondido, an authentic blend of Old World and contemporary charm, sits proudly on the pristine beach in Oaxaca. This 19th-century house, full of work from local artisans, has only 12 bedrooms and a relatively newly built tower, which is a space of silence and exclusively for the hotel guests. It certainly isn’t your typical hotel, perhaps more like a sanctuary of simplicity and serenity, architecture and nature blending perfectly. My room even had its own mini pool, even though there is a larger one with a great beach view. The food is sensational and perfectly compliments the ‘boho’ beach vibe and the staff are delightful.

As the sun rises, Puerto Escondido springs to life, with surfers hitting the waves and many people doing their yoga practice on the beach. To kick off my exploration, I started my day beach hopping and no better place to start than Zicatela Beach, famous for its best surfing spots.

Zicatela Beach, about 40 mins from Oaxaca, is a renowned spot for seasoned and very experienced surfers, who love to shred the infamous Mexican Pipeline, a tubular wave reaching up 20 feet. The waves peak during surf season from May to September, just in case you’d rather miss them! Apart from the surf you’ll find very lovely and friendly locals, charming shops and a golden, wide, gloriously bohemian beach.

According to some locals I met, surfers from across the globe visit Zicatela, drawn by its reputation as a surfing mecca and the host of prestigious competitions like the MexPipe Challenge. But for those seeking a more tranquil and relaxed experience, a stroll leads to Playa Carrizalillo in a secluded cove filled with lively beach bars and restaurants. The waves are somewhat gentler, let’s even say ‘medium sized’ and ideal for beginners and those in search of relaxation. I certainly wasn’t going anywhere near the waves at Zicatela but surfing here at CarrizaIillo was a blast!

If surfing isn’t quite your style, there is still a whole ocean of adventure waiting for you in Puerto Escondido. I went on an awesome boat ride to see the dolphins, splashing around in their natural habitat and greeting us with their cheerful antics and infectious energy. While featuring a backdrop of stunning rock formations, the scene was nothing short of magical. After that the joy continued when I was lucky to have sightings of sea turtles, seabirds, and even manta rays!

Just a few steps away from the beach, I stumbled upon Mercado de Zicatela, a marketplace with various authentic Mexican delicacies. Here, I found an abundance of original and freshly prepared dishes that more than satisfied my hunger. For seafood lovers, I would suggest La Principal Cantina La Mar; you’ll find delicious ceviche to specialties like Camarones del Puerto and Medallones de Lomo de res on the menu. The food was not only delicious but also reasonably priced, and with tables conveniently set up near the beach, I was able to savour my meal while watching the serene coastal ambiance.

For those seeking a taste of the vibrant local scene, go to Adoquín, the centre of Puerto Escondido. This lively tourist strip contains bars, restaurants and street food stalls with fresh fish tacos, seafood delicacies and traditional Oaxacan dishes. The best time to explore Adoquín is in the evening, when the place comes alive with bustling nightlife, attracting locals and tourists.

To rid of some calories I decided, the following day, to hike up Cerro del Vigía (Vigia Hill). It was some fellow travellers I met who tipped me off about it. Located near the centre of Puerto Escondido, Cerro del Vigía boasts scenic hiking trails that lead to the summit of the hill. From the top, you’ll be treated to panoramic views of the town, coastline and surrounding countryside. It is in fact the last peak on the Baja Peninsula before the land fuses into the sea and every moment there feels like an escape. I hired a guide for the day – definitely worth it.

I just about had time to explore the famous Mercado Benito Juárez street market, where there are stalls with handicrafts, souvenirs and excellent fresh produce, all sold by friendly vendors ready to bargain hard!

The evening planned was one I had been looking forward to for some time. Chef Keisuke Harada was enticed to Puerto Escondidio from Japan to set up the wonderful Kakurega Omakase. The finest ingredients, sourced from local farmers and fishermen, are expertly executed right before the eyes of his diners – it really is an experience. After that it was a swift mezcal nightcap at Cobarde before a well needed sleep.

To sum up this wonderful place I’d say it’s rather magical – it seems to enchant with authenticity and charm; let’s hope it stays this way.